Step 1
Carla: It all starts with a design specification by Closed. We have a very close collaboration with the accessory designers and always exchange lots of ideas to create the best possible product together. At first, we select the leather and colour we would like to use for the bag. We mostly use cowhide and all the leather we use is vegetable tanned. We have to make sure that the respective skin is big enough for the design to avoid seams. As you can imagine, one skin is never like the other, so it is a challenge to find not only the right leather but also the right skin in terms of the size.
Step 2
We then choose all the small components for the bag that will be needed in addition to the leather, for example clasps and zips, mostly made of metal. They need to be high-quality and made to last, and, of course, they have to visually harmonise with the leather.
Step 3
When we have picked all the parts, we start to work on the pattern of the bag. In this stage, we develop the final shape of the bag using three-dimensional card patterns. This helps us to check if the dimensions are right and we can try alternatives without having to waste leather.
Step 4
When we have a final pattern, the next step is to cut the leather for the parts of the bag. For newly developed bags, the leather is cut by hand to create the first leather samples. (The samples are used by Closed to present the new bag styles to customers during the order campaign.) When the bags go into regular production later on, the leather is cut on a cutting machine. Either way, we try to cut the leather in the most efficient way to avoid waste.
Step 5
The next step is flattening the leather parts so that they have an even thickness. The edges of the leather pieces are flattened a little bit more for the seams.
Step 6
The raw edges of the leather parts that will be on the inside of the bag are painted by hand.
Step 7
The Closed logo is embossed on the bag.
Step 8
In the next department, the bag is assembled. The trims (buttons, zips, straps, etc.) are placed, the interlining and lining are attached and the individual parts are sewn together. Most of the work is done by hand.
Step 9
The bag is lined with twill fabric, sometimes including a zip pocket on the inside, and the last seams are sewn.
Step 10
Now, the raw edges of the visible parts of the bag are painted by hand. After the first layer of paint has dried, the process is repeated several times to make sure the colour is opaque. When the last layer of paint has dried, the edges are polished by hand.
Step 11
The last step is the inspection line, where every bag is controlled to check every small detail, before they are carefully packed and shipped to Closed.